Hong Kong Island to Kowloon may only be a few thousand feet across the water, but the contrast is immense; like exchanging a Savile Row suit for a worn leather jacket and scuffed Chelsea boots. And that’s no bad thing. For Kowloon is Hong Kong with its make-up and glitter peeled off: a raucous, mercantile farrago of fast food, fast fashion, fast living and slow traffic. With freedoms for locals being eroded as Beijing ratchets up its control of Hong Kong, the markets of Kowloon, at least for now, show the rambling chaos of a freeform, unencumbered, mercantile democracy. As…