I conducted an unofficial survey on Instagram recently, posing the question: why do you like Spam? Over the course of an hour, the responses piled up in my inbox like, well … spam. There are many things in the culinary world that elicit extreme opinions from both ends of the spectrum, such as Marmite and durian , but Spam – or more broadly, luncheon meat – has always seemed to be the ugly duckling (piglet?) that grew into the beautiful swan everyone wanted to befriend. In the litany of responses I received, many from chefs and silver-spoon-fed foodies, Spam is…