Bhutan today doesn’t look quite like the Bhutan of even just four years ago.In monasteries, laminated QR codes for digital payments are displayed next to worn donation boxes. In Thimphu, the capital, there are solar panels on roofs, Chinese-made electric cars on roads, construction projects just paces apart – six storeys sprouting from the ground in humdrum blocks. Even the hand-painted road signs, once quippy rhymes and memorable alliterations, have become mundane: “No hurry, no worry” replaced with “Don’t look at your mobile phone while driving”.How did the Land of the Thunder Dragon, a nation whose reputation for idyllic, down-to-earth,…