From his perch on a first-floor house on the edge of a spur in Landour, Ruskin Bond has watched the world change amidst the unchanged mountains. Landour, once a quiet outpost of Mussoorie in Uttarakhand that went quieter when the air turned cold and the days became short, now has an all-season pass. On every must-visit reel on Instagram, Landour has day trippers and overnighters trooping in, ensuring it has no dull days anymore. Some of them manage to make their way up the steep stairs to meet Bond. Not all are lucky, though. “Tourists come for selfies at all…